It’s the one barrier we don’t want to break.

Image: Unsplash via Fleur KaanSource:BodyAndSoul

We’ve been slapping products on our faces like it’s going out of style, but now experts are asking us to pull back for the sake of our epidermis.

During lockdown we became quasi-dermatologists, researching specific ingredients and applying them to our skin with reckless abandon.

An obsession with brands such as The Ordinary prompted a more ingredient-focused approach. We were looking for retinol, squalene and jojoba – not wrinkle cream, serum and moisturiser.

The rise of many-step skincare routines overloaded with actives has been well documented, specifically by celebrities who are spruiking as many as 38(!) steps in their evening routine.

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Many of these ingredients – retinols, vitamin C, acids, enzymes – are known to do wonderful things for our skin but, as it turns out, you really can have too much of a good thing.

“Our skin is made up of different layers; the skin barrier is the top and outermost layer of your skin,” says a representative from Australian skincare brand Go-To, founded by Zoë Foster Blake.

“It regulates moisture levels, keeps water locked in your skin and protects you from environmental damage [such as UV radiation and air pollution] and bacteria.”

Skin expert Hannah English tells us to “picture a brick wall”. The skin barrier contains skin cells (the “bricks”) surrounded by waxes and fats called barrier lipids, which make up the “mortar”.

“If your skin’s barrier is impaired, germs and air pollution can get in and cause inflammation,” says English. “[This] might look like tightness, breakouts, redness, hyperpigmentation, stinging or flaking.”

Many things can contribute to an impaired barrier, English says, including:

In moderation, some of these practices can be tolerable, or even helpful to the skin. For example, exfoliating may be important to turn over those new bricks – aka skin cells – in the wall.

However, if it’s done too often, you may be left with “cracks” that allow bacteria and harmful environmental stressors in.

English believes that we should think of our skincare products like medicine.

“You can see how getting the dose right is important and that means neither too little nor too much. A lot of us have learnt this the hard way with our skin care.”

The good news is there are many products out there that can help to heal the skin barrier, and they’re getting more plentiful by the minute.

Go-To has just released new hydrating peptide serum called Much Plumper Skin, and Hannah English recently collaborated with Tbh Skincare on its Rebound serum, which is specially formulated to calm angry, damaged skin.

To better support the skin barrier, Go-To suggests opting for a very gentle cleanser, antioxidant-rich moisturiser and, of course, SPF sunscreen to look after your face. Reach for restoring ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid and panthenol (vitamin B5).

English adds that niacinamide (vitamin B3), glycerine, squalene and cholesterol can all help to rebuild the lipid profile.

She does concede that topping up our barrier lipids (waxes and oils) can seem challenging when our skin is acting out.

“When you’re breakout-prone like I am, it can be really tempting to skip your moisturiser or hydrating products because you’re scared of clogged pores. I get it,” she says, adding, “Let me tell you: helping your skin to reinforce the barrier and retain the water it needs will make a world of difference.”

And while you’re repairing your skin barrier don’t overdo it by using drying, stripping cleansers or active treatments.

When in doubt, keep it simple.

Calm angry skin with aloe, niacinamide and ceramides.

Restore skin with plant butters (marula and shea) and fatty acid-rich oils.

Featuring ceramides, fatty acids and peptides to help damaged skin.

Packed with peptides, collagen and hyaluronic acid to maximise hydration, this sinks right into the skin.

Give your skin a drink with peptides, provitamin B5 and four types of hyaluronic acid.

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