Keep skin calm and comfortable with soothing panthenol. Image by Skin Proud.

Remember the chemical peel that left Samantha Jones red-faced in Sex and the City ? Carrie Bradshaw gasps and says she “looks like beef carpaccio” but a true friend might have run to the pharmacy for panthenol cream. Panthenol, the antioxidant also known as provitamin B5, is proven to soothe and heal skin inflammation, including a painful reaction to chemical exfoliants. It hydrates, smooths skin’s surface, and helps to repair the natural moisture barrier.

According to Paula Begoun, founder of Paula’s Choice Skincare, tests on human skin show that part of panthenol’s wound-healing abilities come from stimulating fibroblasts (cells in skin that make collagen), as well as helping with wound closure by 'knitting' skin’s elements back together, so it is anti-aging as well as reparative. Even if your skin is not wounded, panthenol is a very effective hydrator proven to soften rough skin and help prevent water loss. It is a key ingredient in Eucerin Aquaphor Ointment, from €4.90 at pharmacies nationwide, reportedly one of the most widely-used basic moisturisers among celebrities. Fans include the Kardashians, Charlize Theron and Beyoncé. Here are some things to remember when shopping for panthenol-rich skincare.

Panthenol comes in two forms: D-panthenol (or dex-panthenol) and L-panthenol. Only the 'D' form can provide panthenol’s many benefits because it is this form that the skin converts to the active substance pantothenic acid. L-panthenol is only considered good for hydrating skin. You would think that knowing what you are using would be as easy as checking the product label for D-panthenol, but unfortunately not. Both types can be listed as panthenol on product packaging. If a brand does not specify the type, it is up to the customer to ask which form of panthenol their skincare products contain. All of the skincare products mentioned on this page contain D-panthenol.

Panthenol plays well with lots of other antioxidants and is frequently paired with hyaluronic acid. Both hyaluronic acid and panthenol are water-soluble ingredients with similar benefits, most notably hydrating skin and reducing inflammation. They go about these jobs differently; for example, hyaluronic acid can attract and hold many times its weight in water, and then help ensure its even distribution throughout skin’s layers. Panthenol helps prevent water loss and has a special ability to reduce redness and itching by reducing specific inflammatory enzymes in skin. “Panthenol also encourages skin to make more lipids such as ceramides, while hyaluronic acid plays a key role in maintaining skin’s underlying support structure,” says Paula Begoun. “Both are excellent ingredients to look for in skin care since both promote healthier, smoother, younger-looking skin.” Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster, €39 at paulaschoice-eu.com , also offers a panthenol boost.

Those with oily skin typically steer clear of emollient moisturisers to avoid looking greasy, as most emollients are oils or waxes. Panthenol is a non-oily emollient that has a nice smoothing effect on the surface of the skin but does not exacerbate acne. On the contrary, its anti-inflammatory benefits mean it reduces acne’s redness as it smooths. It is not oil-soluble and does not clog pores. Dr Barbara Sturm Calming Serum, €190 at brownthomas.com , has plenty of panthenol, as well as a milky texture that does not leave skin shiny.

Many anti-redness products use panthenol for its soothing, calming and antioxidant properties. None of them are formulated with one ingredient alone, so it is still important to check ingredients for potential irritants, such as denatured alcohol and fragrance (including essential oils), to avoid undermining panthenol’s benefits. Rosalique 3-in-1 Anti-Redness Miracle Formula SPF50, €33.95 at rosalique.ie , soothes with panthenol, α-bisabolol, zeolite, and shea butter.

Panthenol can comfort skin sensitised by a chemical peel and also soothe skin after microdermabrasion, facial brushing or any treatment that involves resurfacing the face and neck quickly. If your retinol product is drying or causes peeling, try applying a panthenol moisturiser to act as a buffer against moisture loss before you use it. Studies show that retinol is still effective when layered on top of moisturiser, though it is important to wait until your moisturiser has completely dried before applying the retinol. The Ordinary Amino Acids + B5, €6.95 at lookfantastic.ie , is a lightweight panthenol serum that includes the anti-ageing peptide arginine.

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